Japanese Black Pine Development
A collection of notes, including a discussion on Bonsai Tonight with Jonas and Eric.
Spring de-candling and fall pruning, if healthy and if signs support this action. If unhealthy or missed, it will not result in budding the following season. Why in spring? To encourage second flush or growth. Why in fall? To reduce density of needles and foliage for winter.
Typically see a whorl on the top after year 2. Should have old needles below that May bud back. The more you cut from the sacrificial branch the more growth results below. In the current year’s growth, snap off the top inch and lower budding and upper branch work will result.
Cut-back branches around year 3-4, if you want a smaller tree for any taper or budding. Balance of sacrifice branches so as to encourage strength lower on the trunk.
Must train curvature early before the wood is too big and hard to do so.
Tip: take photos with time stamping when you work on your pines (or in general), and compare with the following year to see the results. Assess what works best and adjust for success in the future.
SBBK (Val): avoid needle plucking along trunk or branches—limits future budding or branch options. New philosophy.
Watering
Every day, check the soil 1/4″ – 1/2″ below the surface and gauge the moisture by sight and touch. Ensure the soil is roughly 50% – 70% dry before watering.
Even if it’s been several days since the last watering, it’s OK to wait until the soil begins to dry out before watering again.
Bonsai tonight
SBBK/Val Monroe
Using a mix of equal akadama: pumice: lava), the best way is to use the akadama as a moisture meter by looking at its color change from dark brown to tan. The moisture underneath the top surface will still be present but you never want the entire root ball to be fully dry anyway.
r/Bonsai
If you have pines in 1:1:1 then it’s tough to overwater (especially with air pruning containers). Watering once a day is a pretty safe bet if it’s that dry every day. I water my full sun pines in bonsai soil and pond baskets once a day, sometimes twice if it’s 90F+. When I check, I’m looking maybe 2 particle levels down to see moisture. I know if there’s moisture that far down, then it probably doesn’t need water. Granted, 2 particles is pretty shallow but still, it’s a bit nuanced and also depends on your conditions too (I’m a lot more humid than you for example)
It’s taken a lot of experience and dead pines for me to dial it in too. Don’t let their deaths be in vain! It sounds like you’re doing the right things here
