Seasonal Oak Care: SBBK JT

Developing Oak Bonsai

Do not replicate a tree, but follow the patterns or behavior of a given tree
Do not just wire a long branch up and down, but consider the tree in nature is responding to damage—managing the arcs
Soil cannot be anaerobic, roots need oxygen. Sniff it, should not smell foul or mildew.
Amount of components (lava, shale, etc) needs to give more oxygen for good growth. Needs more water as the aggregate does not hold water.
But once refined and less trunk growth, then bias more akadama for refined branches and leaves.
Depth of the pot influences the amount of soil support the roots. Regardless of the depth, gravity will pull water down. But if the pot is shallow, it holds more water—but when dried out there is no reserve to protect the tree.

Buds 5:2 (5 radial leaves and 6th at the end) phyleum (sp?)—many branch options (contrary to maple or opposites or alternate side or vertical)
Prune for Spring Push (Dec 15-Feb 15) or after spring growth elongates and hardens
This season after the first rains for collecting (hydrated) and healthy
Healthiest when collected so chop or prune upon collection
Prophylactic fungicide (not on the day it rains); ask nursery for copper recommendation (Bordeaux)
Can also manage internode lengths—by trimming tip
Pots: oaks like more soil/depth
Soil: refined 50% akadama; more akadama slows down, reduces oxygen
Pots: oval or moka (shaped); glazed or unglazed. Broadleaf evergreen, darker blue, unglazed darker pot
Wiring bends: shoots always come out straight—make one gradual arc, then side branches will have their own arc.

Can grow from acorn.

Coast live oaks are evergreen and some but not all scrub oaks are as well.
I typically would not defoliate right now going into winter. Maybe earl Feb or after they harden off in May/June.
Only defoliate if the tree is healthy and vigorous.