Autumn—changes
“Chlorophyll. Chlorophyll absorbs sunlight using the sun's energy to make food for the plant. In preparation for freezing weather, nutrients move slowly out of the leaves and into the tree's branches, trunk and roots where they are safely stored against the cold. When spring comes, the tree will draw on these nutrients to grow new leaves. When the nutrients depart, however, the leaves stop making chlorophyll, and the chlorophyll remaining in the leaves gradually disintegrates, allowing other pigments to come out of hiding and hence turning the leaves a different color!”
http://www.cas.miamioh.edu/scienceforohio/Fall%20Slumbers/Bg.html#:~:text=Chlorophyll.%20Chlorophyll%20absorbs%20sunlight%20using%20the%20sun's,they%20are%20safely%20stored%20against%20the%20cold.
Fall Slumbers
Val Monroe
When I cut something, that isn’t the endpoint any more. The endpoint is when does the new growth harden from the cut.
So, if I cut my maple too late in fall, and new growth starts, will it harden enough so leaves fall naturally? Maybe better to leave a bit shaggy. Then when leaves turn, make your cuts. All the sugars will be incorporated and you don’t lose strength.
Btw, this also applies to a late season leaf burn from heat. The tree will try to resprout but the new leaves remain on well into winter. Really weakens the tree.
You can chop in winter or spring. If it’s a really big cut sometimes spring is better so that the cambium doesn’t recede.
Sealing cuts really does work.
My understanding in working with Peter.
To create budding or really future branch divisions you have to cut where you want it. But……
On deciduous you can cut close to or where you want the division and buds will come out (even if not there yet).
On broadleaf evergreen you can cut close to where you want the division but will be safer to cut where there is a leaf. Boxwood, silver berry, yaupon holly, will grow from bare wood but safer to cut at leaf.
Conifers must be cut at some sort of green or the branch will die back.
You can do small cuts (up to half inch?) after leaf drop. Bigger cuts (and small) in spring.
Autumn is a good time to prune bonsai trees. This will allow them to settle from pruning before their repot in spring (pruning and repotting all in one go is not ideal for a tree!)